4. Starting a thread - use a 'waste' knot, and work two little back stitches to secure the thread. Once the thread is secured, the knot can be removed.
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5. Start in the middle with the palest blue thread DMC Col.927. Work the thread just over the line by an ⅛" of an inch or 2mm.
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| 6. Fill in the whole block, working out from the middle on both sides, to help keep the direction straight. The shape of the block widens at the bottom, and therefore, it is necessary to add in a shorter stitch to retain the shape. |
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| 7. Next colour - DMC Col.822, an off white colour. Work from the middle of the first colour, bringing the needle up on the original design line. Work the block in the same way, middle out on both sides, and work slightly over the next line. Keep the stitches very close together for the best result! |
8. Again work the stitches to fit the shape on each side.
This design has been worked using a No.10 crewel embroidery needle, or it is possible to use a 9 or 8.
Tracy: I am following along and really enjoying your design. So far I have successfully transferred the design and bonded the fabric. I am, however, having problems keeping the top line as even as I would like. Sometimes it seems that the thread pulls lower than it is placed. I wonder if you have any pointers or it is just another skill that requires" practice." I assume the sequence continues with DMC 3768 and 926 and then repeats. My design is slightly larger, about 4 1/2" wide. Thank you so much. Hope
ReplyDeleteHello - I think you are referring to the first satin stitch block. Sometimes it does pull, and it maybe the fabric you are using. Sometimes that happens with me, and I aim my needle a little higher up the fabric, so that if and when it pulls, it is still in the right place I want it to be - if that helps?
DeleteI will do the next posting tomorrow, with a few more tips before going too far.