Logo - final . . .

Final result

Another viewing point!

And this is it - complete!

Very soon, I will be blogging about my teaching for Williamsburg, which I am teaching on behalf of the Royal School of Needlework this May . . .

Logo - part six . . .

Pearl purl outline . . .

. . . all around the edge

The Pearl purl, is used to edge the final piece, which is couched into place and cut to fit the shape.  Nearly finished . . .

Logo - part five . . .

Bright check purl chip work

Centre complete!

The centre of this logo is worked with Gilt Bright check purl chip work, where the purl thread is cut into tiny little pieces and individually threaded on like a bead, and sewn on to the centre surface.  All the pieces are so small and compacted together, that it gives a very shiny sparkly appearance.

I worked this technique into the evening when the light was starting to fade, hence the mood of these images . . .   

Logo - part four . . .

Starting the Pearl purl from the centre bottom

Encase the thread around the Pearl purl, and make sure it clicks in between the beads on the Pearl purl

Circle complete - meeting both ends - head on

Pearl purl thread is used mainly for outlining and the finishing of gold work.  Outlining is normally applied after most parts of the design have been worked, but in the case of the centre, where I will be filling it with chip work, the outline is applied first, and then the centre can be filled.

I used No.1 Gilt Pearl purl, and started the circle from the bottom middle - a good tip if ever working lettering.  However, this logo of mine, is symmetrical, and therefore does not have a top or bottom as such.

Logo - part three . . .

soft string padding complete ready for the gold cut work

gold cut work - gilt smooth purl; gilt bright check purl, at an angle
worked with a No.10 crewel embroidery needle

gold cut work from the top!

So, here you can see how I do the cut work.  I don't start right at the end, but a little way in, or the centre to get a good angle on the cut work.  These gold or gilt purls are spirals of wire, which bend, and enable the needle and thread to pass through the middle.  I can work this technique quite quickly now with the years of experience I have behind me, although it can be a tricky technique, because these purl threads can fracture and damage easily.

The actual size of this silk and gold cross is about 1½ inches wide, so the images are quite magnified!

Logo - part two . . .

couching over paired passing thread with brick stitch

more couching

couching complete and the ends are ready for plunging

soft string padding ready for cut work

Every time I work this design, I approach it differently, shading with different colours, shading dark to light, or light to dark, working with finer threads or bolder threads. 

I used fine gold passing thread for the couching, which looks very delicate, with the whole piece worked on a linen background.

My Logo . . .

Stage 1 - felt applied and long and short stitch started

Stage 2 - Shading into the long and short stitch

Stage 3 - Detailed shot of shading

Now back after house moving for three months, and working on a small commission, working my logo for a customer - my silk and gold cross.

So you will see all the details I work through to complete my logo starting with applying the felt padding, followed by the long and short shading, also known as silk shading.

The design is worked on a fine linen fabric, worked with Stranded cotton threads, with the design size being roughly 5cm square or 2 inches.  

The photographs are very magnified, and show the work in bigger detail making the technique look coarser than it actually is.

More to come . . .

Silk and Gold

Silk and gold work © 2012 Tracy A Franklin

Now my cover image on my facebook profile . . .

https://www.facebook.com/Tracy.A.Franklin.Embroiderer